‘Abbott Elementary’ hairstylist on how changing this character’s look shaped story arc

Season 4 of Abbott Elementary was a memorable one for the characters on the show, but what stood out most were the bold hair statements throughout the 22 episodes.

One of the most notable hair changes viewers saw this season was with Ava Coleman, played by Janelle James, 45.

Ava, the school’s principal, is known for her eccentric personality, untraditional leadership skills, and memorable one-liners. She has lied, threatened, stolen, and negotiated with everyone for what viewers can argue is the betterment of the school. 

Moira Frazier, the Makeup Department Head for the show and a two-time Emmy nominee for Outstanding Contemporary Hairstyling, explained how she wanted to show Ava’s character arc through her wigs.

“Okay, in the beginning of her character building, she always had her hair like, you know, a different wig every single episode, like that was her thing. That was her vibe,” Frazier said.

“But this season, this past season, season four, it came more at we wanted to show her stability and her coming into her role as being the principal of the school and taking that role a lot more seriously,” she continued.

Since being introduced to Ava in Season 1, she has been known for having different hair colors, primarily blonde.

The eccentric principal is also known for wearing 18-20 inches of long hair. However, in the first half of Season 4, Ava’s hair had an ombre effect, going from black to burgundy. 

“For me, I wanted to introduce this color that we really haven’t seen too much in TV and film, and it reads so well on her because a lot of times you can do like that red ombre, but sometimes if it’s not color right, it’s going to show off too bright, and doesn’t really go with the skin tone,” Frazier said. “But for her, this particular color, it just blends seamlessly.”

As the series progressed, viewers saw a shift in Ava’s character when she started to deeply care for her staff and students.

At the height of the season, Ava got fired for taking the fall for her staff after the school district found out about their scheme for the new golf course.

In these two moments, Frazier decided to give this character a different hairstyle to show how determined Ava is not only in her position but also in proving to others that she can do her job.

When Ava rocked a jet black, short lob, Frazier revealed she specifically wanted that hairstyle to help define her character growth and “show variety.” 

“You have to be able to show your leadership role. You got to be able to show that ‘I’m not messing around role,’ you know what I mean. So in all of these different leadership roles, I feel like each wig complements that role. And for this particular role, it wasn’t ‘I’m coming to this budget meeting begging y’all,’ it’s ‘I’m telling y’all this is what you’re going to do’ because blunt bobs mean business,” Frazier said.

This isn’t the first time that Frazier used hair to show Ava’s character in a different light. Back at the beginning of Season 3, Ava got a whole new wardrobe, showing how mature she had become during the break and how seriously she was taking her role as principal.

“Yes, she adjusted to Harvard, and she wanted to get her little stuff together, but it still has to be Ava,” Frazier noted. “So Ava always makes a statement, no matter how subtle, no matter how, um, whatever stage she is in her life.”

In “Abbott Elementary,” Frazier made it a point for every character to be recognizable by their hair and outfits. 

The mockumentary-style sitcom, which follows the everyday lives of school faculty, shows viewers which teachers have been at the school longer than others through hair and makeup.

Ava is always seen with long hair and form-fitted outfits, while Janine Teagues (Quinta Brunson) has a long, curly wig. Melissa Schemmenti (Lisa Ann Walter) has fiery and voluminous red hair, and Barbara Howard (Sheryl Lee Ralph) has short hair with a side bump. 

Frazier describes Barbara as the “vet” of the group of teachers and wants to pay homage to elderly women like Barbara, who “pretty much paved the way for all of us to even be where we are today,” which was why she wanted to get her hair right for the show.

“Yes, she’s been there the longest, but she’s the pillar. She’s the one that’s going to have that consistent hairstyle. We count on her to be the same, and the same thing with Ms. Schemmenti. That’s why they’re friends. That’s why they’re best friends.”

Barbara was another character who went through a small identity crisis this season. During the 100th day of school episode, Barbara asks Ava for a makeover because she doesn’t want to be seen as an “old grandmother.”

While Ava gave Barbara a fresh, new, younger look, Frazier thought that it would be a good idea to add a pop of color to her hair to show her dedication to wanting to look and feel young.

“And even with people like Barbara, there’s a lot of people like Barbara that’s like, ‘I want a little change. So let me pop this blonde in there because I want to look young. I want to be called grandma. Yet don’t call me grandma. Don’t call me elder,’” she said.

Frazier said that the idea of changing Barbara for this specific episode was a collaboration between her and Brunson, who is the show’s creator.

“That was actually a collaboration between me and Quinta,” Frazier shared, going on to say that they “wanted her [Ralph] to be relevant to the average Philly girl or Philly woman” who wanted to be a young grandmother.

When asked how often she and Brunson collaborate with hair and makeup for the series, Frazier said that she “doesn’t run or execute anything without Brunson’s approval.”

“Nine times out of 10, we’re always on the same page. So she’ll be like, ‘Oh yes, this is what I was thinking. Oh yeah, girl, you got it,’ you know, things like that. And sometimes, you know, when it’s something very specific, she’ll be like, ‘Well, something like this,’ and then, you know, we execute like that, but it’s more so me and her collaborate a lot like a lot, and she just lets me be free.”

A major collaboration with Brunson and Frazier in this last season was during the 100th day of school episode, where Frazier had to create over 150 unique wigs, afro puffs, scarves, bonnets, and hats.

“That was a Quinta idea,” Frazier recalled of shooting the episode. ” I was so busy making sure we had all those 100-plus wigs for the kids that I forgot to make Barbara a little mini Barbara’s wig. So I’m up there freaking out, like, ‘Oh my god, what the heck?’ So I’m going through my drawers, pulling stuff out, throwing stuff everywhere.”

During the episode, one of Barbara’s students decided to dress up like her since it was the 100th day of school, and students were encouraged to look like senior citizens.

“I ended up having to make a baby quick weave. So I took the smallest little Styrofoam head, and I sat there, and I did that quick weave in, like, 15 minutes old school with it. I was talking about a plastic cap. I had to do the shower cap, met like the whole baby,” Frazier said. “I went old school, and I did them little tracks, and I’m just sewing together, not sewing, but gluing together. And then I put it on her and cut it on her. And it was perfect because the idea was not to look exactly like Barbara. It was supposed to look like a little; it was supposed to look like she took a mama’s wig.”

With any character on a TV show, hair can help show viewers where a character is in their arc, whether that be starting fresh, going into a spiral, etc.

Frazier said that for any hair and makeup artist, you “have to do your research” when showing a character arc growth or regression.

“Everything is not a hair show, if you know what I mean. Everything is not always artistic, but you can still flex your artistic skills when you’re doing subtle hairstyles,” she explained.

“So even though it’s straight, we’ll add a little color, even though it may be black, or do a little brass and dazzle with the curl. Either way, you want to be able to show creativity and versatility and also authenticity.”

“I hold a very high standard when it comes to doing authentic hairstyles. I want people to resonate with the hairstyles that they see across the screen based on the character that I’m doing. So, a teacher, I’m not gonna put her in a ponytail with a bang, like I’m not gonna make a teacher look like that. You know what I mean, unless she’s in a specific demographic, unless she’s in a specific school setting, or unless that culture of that area is where it is,” Frazier said.

Season 4 of ABC’s “Abbott Elementary” ended on April 16, but all seasons are currently available to stream on Hulu.